Sheets absolutely should not be placed directly on the paper, but rather on permeable film using battens and counter battens. This structure of patches and battens can also be used on boarded roofs covered with tar paper. It provides proper ventilation, slope, and prevents condensation of water vapor at temperature jumps. With a small decrease in slope, the lower parts of the roof are good for thickening battens, to reduce the load of snow lying on top. The patches must be nailed exactly parallel to the intervals so that even the plates in its lowest points can be supported. The fixing of the first patch is dependent on the width of the gutters and roof pitch. However, it must be about 16 – 20 mm thicker to compensate for leap knockouts. It can be achieved by using spacers.
The lower edge of the sheet metal roof tiles should go third gutter width. If we use the belt flashings we must remember to mount it in a way allowing the film to the discharge any possible condensation.
The sheets are laid from the left side of roof first attaching “dry” the first three sheets to check the angle, bringing eaves and ridge. Placing each sheet of water groove underneath you should fix them with short screws of about 20 mm ribs on each module.